MISTRISS OF THE MOUNTAINS
a paradigm of telluride

Telluride, Colorado , is no plain-Jane. In fact, she's rather provocative. Her evasive charms and stunning looks have lured visitors from around the globe year after year. The shapely mountain fortresses that surround the alpine villa are her distinct trademarks, while her friendly inhabitants and meticulous preparation for arrivals make her a most gracious hostess.

Telluride has a love affair with its surroundings, history and newcomers. She is constantly blending old with new; contemporary with Victorian; active with passive and; quiet times with boisterous celebrations. Madam Telluride or, perhaps, more appropriately, the Mistress of the San Juan Mountains , wants merely to "leave an impression." She wants to make a statement; one that will forever be imbedded into the contours of your mind. Why? It's her rare, gem-like qualities. She knows she's precious and at times feels the need to flaunt it. In fact, if the truth be known, she must flaunt her beauty or she'll wither away and die, and become a ghost town like she nearly was in the 1950s.

Near the turn-of-the-century, Telluride was one of the top ore producing areas in the nation. Miners flocked here from around the world in hopes of striking it rich. Swedes, Finns, French, Italians, Germans, Cornish and Chinese immigrants worked the mountains and mines day-in and day-out for nearly half a century. They were the ones who routinely risked their lives for the sake of making it big as well as the ones who set the tone of our Mistress' present-day attire. They adorned her with their Scandinavian and European forms of architecture which is presently and collectively known as Victorian. Historians see the Victorian look as the romantic return to "Gothic" or "Gothic Revival." The Gothic genre depicts the mysticism of the Middle Ages. It emphasized light and soaring spaces. Huge stained glass windows were usually the focal point of most structures, particularly those constructed for religious gatherings. If one could reduce the scale 30-fold or so from the grandioseness of most European edifices and imagine paupers, not entire civilizations, like in Europe, built the first landmarks here, you'd be able to envision the Mistress' reflection of the Old World .

Like the great Queen Victoria (from which the Victorian Era was named) of Great Britain and Ireland (1837-1901) and empress of India , our Mistress of the Mountains has impeccable taste. Her eclectic fashion blends intricate, ornate details with superb, high-quality materials. She was very conscientious in regard to administering covenances that would keep her standing as a top-notch resort community. Hence, she created HARC, an acronym for the "Historic Architectural Review Committee." This committee is essentially the Mistress' royal guard. These "Knights of the Round Table" review architectural plans and see that they are implemented in accordance to the high standards set by HARC. The knights give the plans their "yeas or nays" or ask for modifications. Though often tenuous, this political function keeps the Mistress in top form. Further, it allows her to tout her status as a National Historic District which she was awarded in 1964.

Vibrant
As most mistresses of a household, our Lady loves being adorned in fabrics that are lavish and rich in texture as well as vibrant in color. She tends to like the royal colors - emerald greens, ruby reds, pearl whites and sapphire blues. Canary yellow, lavender and the"fire and ice" hues are favorites of her's as well, though she'll only wear them for a few weeks each season. One of the most glorious aspects of Telluride are her distinctive seasons and ever-pleasant, never-too-cold temperature. Being in such close proximity to desert-country, her weather is unique to the high-country. Telluride and the San Juans display the magnificent colors of Colorado throughout the year. As spring fades to summer, summer to fall and fall to winter, the Mistress engages in a ritualistic ceremony of sorts. Her part in the ceremony is to make sure the vast kaleidoscope of colors in her wardrobe are worn and exhibited in the most attractive of ways. Once everyone has had a chance to see her flaunt her regal-stuff, she changes her gown as if by osmosis. She is in sync with nature and plans nearly every move she makes by Mother Nature's offerings. There are two "prime times" in Telluride, the warm-weather season and the cold-weather season; giving residents two off seasons and two on-seasons. Skiing, of course, is the major attraction of the cold weather interval as hiking, biking, fishing, golfing, swimming. tennis and festivals are the main events of the tepid interval. Our Mistress has an ensemble of mountains standing guard over her territory. (Most are pictured on the opposing page.) There's the grand and mighty duo to the west; Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak . Then there is the ever-gracious San Sophia Ridge to the north. At the east end of the "Valley of the Hanging Falls," is Ajax and his cohorts. To the south are the stately groupings of Pilot's Knob, See Forever, Prospect Basin , Engineer Mountain and more. The Mistress is well-protected by the lofty giants of the southwestern Rocky Mountains . This 360 degree fortress of 12,000 to 14,000-foot walls with star-studded views, make Telluride a blue-ribbon destination resort.

Charm
From the east to the west, Telluride spans a mere 12 blocks long. From the north to the south, she averages five blocks in depth. Though many people reside on the mountains, mesas and valleys surrounding the municipality, Telluride is the domicile for nearly 1,500 dwellers. She's evolved from an Indian hunting ground, to a mining intensive town, to a ski resort and now, a four-season resort community. How has this lady blossomed with such splendor you ask? Her beauty has attracted visitors from all over, number one. Number two; many guest have stayed and helped the "visionaries" develop a playground for travelers. Their synergism plus foresight in incorporating Telluride's "gifts of the earth," have made the area one of the truly special places you'll ever visit. Telluride rests at 8,745' and the highest peak ( Mount Wilson pictured below) measures at 14,246' above ocean waters. Telluride and her sister-city, the grand and stately Mountain Village , are surrounded by a sea of untouched wilderness areas. Uncompahgre National Forest , vacant BLM land and independent owners' property surround this Shangri-La. The thousands upon thousands of unsaleable "open space" acreage places a high value on lands that are for sale. The "lack of land" make Telluride available only to a few suitors.

Elixir
Our Mistress is the grandest of hostesses. She is, in essence, a panacea of rest, relaxation and adventure. While in her soothing caress you'll find a myriad of restful activities as well as physically challenging and adventurous things-to-do. There are endless things to discover and behold about this beauty. Perhaps start on the River Corridor Trail or the biking, walking, rollerblading path that meanders west of town and runs for miles amid the valley floor. On your way back you cannot miss the view of the box canyon with Bridal Veil Falls plummeting several hundred feet to form the headwaters of the San Miguel River . The cascading falls at the edge of Telluride seem to set the town into a rhythmic beat; making dwellers seemingly pulsate to the heartbeat of nature. (The people of Telluride are very environmentally conscientious and very outdoorsy.) To the north and south ends of town respectively are Jud Wiebe and Bear Creek Falls trails. Both are highly recommended if you're in for a hike. If you're more in the mood to explore the West, rent a jeep, hike or horseback ride to the many area ghost towns.

Historic
Ghost towns are an attraction in themselves. Not only historians gain insight from the communities of yesteryear, but those with mere respect of our forefathers acquire an understanding of the dangerous climate the prospectors put themselves in regularly. Once you're in the cryptic surroundings of the bunk houses and weathered, dilapidated mining shafts, you'll feel a ghost-like, almost eery presence. The presence is the vibrations from the sweat and blood the miners put into moving and blowing-up gigantic, jaggedmountains of rock in treacherous terrain. Knowing these "dare-devils" climbed miles into the bowels of the earth in the dead of winter and worked in near-dark, mucky, murky conditions ten to 12 hours per day, five to six days a week - in the same clothing, (It's no wonder women stayed in the valley below and were rarely near the mines; the stench must have been too tremendous to handle.) one can better picture the die-hard commitment and fortitude the miners had. Today, some of the area's most viewed ghost towns/mining sites are: Tomboy Ruins, Liberty Bell Mine, Alta Lakes , Ames , Smuggler and Gold King. Take a camera, have a picnic and hike around the Mistress' nostalgic past. Nature is what gives the Mistress such an expansive portfolio of recreational opportunities. Mountain biking, horseback riding, camping, hiking, world-class fishing and canoeing are some of her eventful offerings. (Turn to the activity section on pages 42 to 49 to obtain your detailed descriptions of trails, outdoor companies and the like.) There are at least half a dozen campsites within a 20-mile radius of town. Most have running water near them and all have memorable views. Of course, follow the National Park's guidelines on proper camping, hiking and biking etiquette. Leave only footprints and take only memories.

Noble
Telluride is home to a unique bunch; a wild bunch, if you will. Their chemistry isn't too far off that of Butch Cassidy's "Wild Bunch Gang" who he met up with years after he robbed the San Miguel Valley Bank of Telluride in 1889. Much like the McCarty and Wild Bunch Gangs Cassidy belonged to, Telluride's residents like the notoriety they get from being a town member as well as being out of the "main-stream of society." Their hide-out is similarly a virtual "hole-in-the-wall" and many of her residents go through boom and bust financial periods (like robbers) as the town has noticeable high and low ebbs which are generally in sync with the on and off-seasons. This is not to say, however, that the Mistress' occupants are outlaws or anything of the sort. But rather they seem to be attracted to the Mistress of the Mountains because she consorts with the social stratum of upbeat, healthy and sometimes, eccentric individuals. In a way they are a group of rebels that disassociate themselves from sport coats, ties, stockings and high heels. They don't like chic-chic, yet they are "with it." They don't like sofa-potatoes, yet they love the cinema and arts. They really don't like bumps-on-a-log as they have a spirit of adventure that keeps on going and going and going - like the pink, drum-tapping rabbit on television. Our Lady's local-lodgers are made up of a hodgepodge of backgrounds. The middle-aged group, which presently makes up a large portion of the "business leaders," came to Telluride as long-haired hippies and flower children in the 1960s and 70s. They make up some of the "visionaries." The next distinctive group is the "ski fanatics" or die-hard outdoor enthusiasts. This group ranges in age from 18 to 60 with the majority being 25 to 35-years-old. These are the people who live (and die) for the mountains. They are serious, dedicated and relentless in their pursuit of outdoor adventure. These extremists were drawn to Telluride like a magnet because they knew she had a reputation for being the "most difficult ski mountain in the nation" as well as offered a mother- lode of challenging alpine terrain. Among the upper crust are two groups; the "visionaries" and the second-homeowners. The "visionaries" are largely the driving force behind Telluride's quality growth. They look out for and set the tone of Telluride's infrastructure and resort offerings. Some are land barons while others are participants of the political machine. The second-homeowners have built their dream homes amid the corridor's of the Mistress' fine fortress. They care about the community as a whole and are generally "peak performers" in the American society. Genuine, intelligent and adaptable would best describe the second homeowner. The final group is the "right-after-college, try-it-for-aseason" group. These "kids" are testing their wings and flight patterns away from home or their normal element. Most stay for a season or two and the others are "hooked and try to stay to make it work." They make up most of the work-force in the service industry and are the blood in our Mistress' veins. The above description of the various types of dwellers the Mistress houses is, at most, a very general overview. Over fifty percent of her economic base is related to guest accommodations. The professional/service industry is approximately twenty-five percent, while the food and retail businesses together compile nearly thirteen percent of the market. Construction holds at about seven percent. From these statistics, you can easily see that the Mistress' specialty lies in the accommodation realm of things. Obviously, she likes to have guests and does her best to make their stay memorable. As you'll certainly notice while visiting Telluride, there are no chain hotels or motels. All the accommodations are modeled after the romance of days gone by; be it Western, Southwestern or Victorian. There are, of course, many decorated with a contemporary flair as well. A large portion of the establishments are a unique assortment of bed & breakfasts. The decor of most local B&Bs exude the romance and charm of the Victorian Era. Porcelain, bear-claw tubs, down comforters, intricate furnishings and vibrant wall coverings exemplify the elegance of that era.

Romance
The Matron Lady offers the perfect setting for a romantic interlude. As you walk along the streets and shops or in the backcountry with your loved one, you'll take in the sights, sounds and sensations of Telluride. And what sensations there are. They are nearly uncountable. Majestic views, bewildering colors and fresh, clean mountain air are some of the most appreciated. As Telluride residents well know, the mountains are not only a source of life, but their primary source of fun. Indulge in an adventure a day while you're here. Go rafting, horse backriding, nature walking or soaring high above the mountain tops and view the sensational, ever-changing landscape as a bald eagle does. If you feel inclined to experience the West as it was in the Old Days, go on a wagon-wheel dinner ride. Elk, deer, coyote and marmot sightings are nearly guaranteed.

Feast
Now, close your eyes and imagine all the succulent tastes of the world. Imagine sitting in a quaint setting with a dazzling view of the mountains that is set afire by the burning red, orange and lavender colors of an alpenglow. Imagine you're courting your sweetheart with wine and the warm-worldly delights of one of the Mistress' fine selection of restaurants. After dinner, stroll main street in search of a momento to take home. Telluride's shopping is an experience in itself. She offers an abundance of mercantile, clothing and outdoor shops, galleries, bookstores and cappuccino cafés. Cyberspace cafés haven't made it here yet, though there are plenty of "cyber-freaks." For those with a taste for the arts, our refined Lady has a smattering of opportunities from which to explore. Art is up close and real in Telluride. It is not created to be viewed from a distance or in stuffy museums. It is meant to be experienced and felt whether it's the performing arts or the take-home kind. One of the Mistress' finest and most revered qualities is her constant pursuit of the arts. From cutting-edge contemporary to classic masterpieces, Telluride offers on-lookers a strong portfolio. For those of you who want the first-hand experience of making art, call Ah Haa School for the Arts. They offer a most unusual selection of creative things-to-do. Bookbinding, basketry, printmaking, photography, dance, ceramics, drawing and painting are offered at this institute.

Drama
For a perfectly enchanting evening, go to a live theatrical performance or to a world-famous Joffrey Ballet demonstration. Attend a showing of the Ciné Club or simply take-in a movie at the Nugget Theatre. The social graces of the Mistress are very refined and prolific. The minute she's done hosting one gathering, she begins to gear up for the next. That's why she's called the "Festival Capital of Colorado." In fact, she's kind of gotten out of hand, according to a local fellow. Thus, he reserved a weekend for the Lady to do nothing. Aptly, he named it the "Nothing Festival." The Mistress of the Mountains is proud of her heritage, diverse population, resort amenities and spirit of adventure. She has become known as a lady of her times. She's a conservator of the old and new. She knows where she came from and where she's going. She knows what travelers are looking for and has impeccable standards by which to fulfill their desires. She's genuine and grounded. That's a pretty good way to be while the tremors of growth vibrate throughout her kingdom.

The End.